I AM NEW TO EFI AND THE TWIN CAMS. I HAVE BEEN READING ABOUT ENGINE MODS AND EXHAUST CHANGES AIR INTAKE CHANGES AND O2 SENSORS CANGED OR ELECTRONIC ADDITIONS (EXAMPLE POWER COMANDER OR NIGHT RIDER PERFORMANCE UPDATES) WHAT ARE SOME OF THE CHANGES YOU GUYS AN GALS HAVE MADE TO REDUCE HEAT, INCREASE PERFORMANCE (NOT INTERESTED IN RACING) AN MAKE THE BIKE A LITTLE LOUDER.

BEEN RIDING A SHOVEL WITH DRAGS FOR LONG TIME. NEED MORE RUMBLE PLEASE.

ALL SUGGESTIONS WELCOME

THANK YOU

Not sure exactly what you mean by running cooler - what temp is your bike running now.  Just remember the big v-twins were designed as air-cooled engines.  They run hot and run well that way.

You may want to check out this post...
Harley-Davidson V-Twin Oil Temperature

I'M TALKING ABOUT EXHAUST TEMPS AND REAR CYL TEMPS I DO NOT LIKE ROASTED NUTS HA HA!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry, misunderstood. Haven't heard too much about what you can do about the outside temp...and I know it can get real hot, especially sitting at a red light. Kind of the nature of the beast with it being air cooled...the heat needs to go somewhere.

As for the sound, there are just so many choices out there, I've got V&H exhaust on mine and like the way it sounds. Probably just need to hear a bike you like and see what they are running.

On my 08 Electra Went with a PCIII Tuner, to manage my Ness Big Sucker Air Intake and Vance and Hines True Duals Giving a Stage 1 Power with A Fuel/Air Ratio around 13.5 rather than the lean 14.7 Stock A/F.. That alone Lowered the Temps considerably as well as increased the HP and Torque about 10%.. Also added a Jagg Vertical 10 Row Oil Cooler for Florida Summer Temps and Run Synthetic Oil as Well even on 90+ Temp days have never seen it over 220 degrees usually around 180-200.. Sacrificed a little MPG but well worth it to me for the extra power and cooling ...

V&H True Duals Black with the SE High Flow Air Filter and SERT tuned on the Dyno just to get the sound up and add a little power.  For the heat I went ahead and added the Harley Heat Shields and once the 103 kit goes on will also add this http://budsbikerparts.net/ to help with the heat issues.

You'll never get the lope you are used to hearing with your shovel on the new Twin Cams engines with the stock cam, especially with EFI.  I'm adding a high lift cam from Bob Woods Knight Prowler series cams when the 103 kit goes on to help with trying to bring some of that traditional harley sound back to the bike.

If you are running a PowerCommander or some other variant it is possible that the bike is running too rich. If you are running the factory HD tuner with a Stage 1 kit the bike may need the download refreshed. Other than that your pretty much stuck with the heat so Saddle Shields are the next option.

Definitely like the True Duals in Black but got such a deal on the ones I have will live with it for a while ...  Nice Ride there Hambone ..

Thank you all. The lean condition that harley tunes into its fuel injection can be removed by an assortment of choices. All your suggestions both past and future are great. and can be used as a reference for myself and others.

The SERT system is what I prefer to tune with. A little slower to tune then the PC3, but it is quicker on the job of correction, and has less drivability issues. When I am doing a set up I strive for a consistant 13.3A/F.
Personally though I'm a fan of your Shovel as a better solution. Real big twins wear iron cyls!!!

Thank you on the Iron Jugs I love it and I love rideing and working on it. I need to do more rideing and a little less wrench time thats why the Roadking.



Is sert a brand name I like the 13.3 a/f. was looking at the Nightrider system not sure if the LC1 WBO2 w/o2 sensor and wireing change and the $450. cost is the way I want to go. Or if the plug in Xied kit w/o o2 sensors will do. It gets to 13.8 a/f for $60.

SERT is Screaming Eagle Race Tuner, and unlike the other systems it is not a piggyback, or signel modifier. It works within your exsisting ECM making it adjustable. Since it is within your ECM it works quicker, and has all of the sensors availabel to it; drivability is nothing but improved

Thank you

TheX thank you for your help. Is this the SERT you are talking about

Harley Screamin' Eagle Pro Super Tuner 32109-08A

After instalation does harley need to map yhe efi or is that what the computer program is for. Or do I seek assistance from an experienced race shop or tuner.

That is the interface modual. Pro tune is the latest version, and I beleive it also has adjustable timing curves. There are a bunch of off the shelf maps that you can load from your lap top in about 5 minutes. A really good tuner can wring out more power then the off the shelf stuff, but just about any configuration you can think of is available.Most of the bikes I spin are pretty damn close if care is taken in original map selection

THEX
THANK YOU FOT YOUR HELP.

Did the Stage 1 mod,heat shields and for a little extra wrapped the y pipes,helped a bunch.

Looks like I am a little late but I had the same heat issues. When I bought my Ultra I had a set of Rush mufflers installed as well as the Stage 1 kit. Had the Screamin Eagle Race tuner put on and then the bike was on the dyno for 4 hours. Made a lot of improvement. The heat issue appeared after some riding. The wife noticed it first. Back to the shop for some V&H True Duals and 4 more hours on the dyno. This was the ticket. The shop shot thermal images of the engine/exhaust with the stock pipes. They then shot it after the True Duals were put on. It dropped the rear cylinder area almost 200 degrees F. The heat deflectors will not work with my bike because of the adjustable rider back rest. The control gets in the way. The bike shows a 22% increase in horsepower over stock. It has a nice sound with the muffler and pipe combo. The heat issue is all but gone.
Hope this helps.

Ed, Harley also has a fan that mounts on the left side, I beleive. I think you have to relocate the horn. This fan was designed after complaints about the heat Issue on the 96 inch motors. That's all I know about it.

You are correct Gary, but the fan only helps cool the bike when stopped or extremely slow speed.  Like parade duty, or downtown Sturgis!!!

Here are the instructions for mounting the fan kit...

V&H dresser duals; V&H Classic Slip-ons(just for better sound); SE Stage1 air; SEPRT. Helped with the heat quite a bit, as the factory lean (EPA) settings make the engine run hot, plus getting rid of that f-in' crossover was the icing on the cake! The HP gain was nice too!

The twin cam was design to get the heat out of the engine better then presiding engines (Evo’s and Shovel heads). So the nature of the beast it to be hotter on the outside so it can be cooler on the inside. There have been some great suggestions on pipes moving them form the back cylinder area is a big step. That is one of the reasons the stock 09 and above has moved them. The heat shield that HD and other sell helps also (there’s one on my RK). They’re short money so if you don’t like it, it’s not a big lose. Mine is hotter on the right side then the left due to the pipes and that with the heat shield and with a oil cooler to get as much heat away as possible on hot day there’s still some discomfort in stop and go traffic.

Fixed my heat issues with the a Screamin' Eagle 103" top end and better cams, the new Super Tuner rocks too!:-)

First of all there is very little that you can do to really deal with the heat of the rear cylinder, it is one of the design faults with a V-twin. The closed loop EFI system makes a very good attempt at dynamically adjusting fuel and spark fire to maintain the correct exhaust proportion via the O2 sensor which equates to temp on each jug. However the current O2 sensors have a very narrow band of expectable performance and once the engine performance goes beyond that due to heat there is little that can be done. The heat causes a lean mixture and the EFI can only compensate so much. The limits are mandated by the software design to limit pollution.

Now having said that, Thunder Max is a good after market performance system and the offer O2 sensors with a wider performance window. However keep in mind, this is a system and to reap the entire benefit you need to install the entire system.........close to $1000. The over all benefit is marginal when it comes to heat. Where this really shines is when you start adding performance goodies. No matter what you add, the software will adjust to give you the best performance and do it dynamically.

A cheap alternative to all of this, is to run synthetic oil. Most synthetic oils will allow the engine to run cooler under normal usage.

Thundermax is a pile of crap and a total rip off... wide O2 sensors are not the answer. Remember the cost issue for the kit being $1,000.00? Well the wide band O2 sensors don't come cheap and almost NO ONE sells them unless you order it and so forth. The problem lies in the ability to allow the engine to breath better so its best to move away from all the stock exhaust and intake filter and cover. Also increasing the displacement is your best bet. Yes, it's more expensive, but over the long haul it runs better and really when you think about trying to increase the performance out of a 96" motor it doesn't take long to wear out the engine trying to squeeze everything through a engine with no exhaust overlap and tiny hole for a breather. There is no replacement for displacement.