Pushrod Adjustment

    • 1040 posts
    March 18, 2010 10:44 PM PDT
    Ok all you builderrs, mechanics, and wanna be shade tree mech's, someone tell me their way of adjusting pushrods for a HD evo motor. I have SE Adjustables at 24 tpi, not new and were installed a while back but have a bit of a ticking noise. I'm thinking they need adjusted as when I installed them new it was the first time so I might have not done it correct. If someone could, please explain the procedure step by step from beginning to end, ie; how to find TDC, which set of rods to adjust first, etc. Thanks in advance for any help
    • 1040 posts
    March 19, 2010 11:54 PM PDT
    NO one? There's what...7000 people on this site? Common folks, help an ol geezer out....LOL
    • 1509 posts
    March 20, 2010 12:00 AM PDT
    I have a Manual for Shovelheads and Twin Cams Never had an EVO I believ it is the same as a Shovelhead not positive. I can send it your way if you want to try.
    • 1040 posts
    March 20, 2010 12:12 AM PDT
    Hey, apreaciate it Ed. I know how to adjust the pushrods. I just can't remember if there was a sequence the rods were to be tghtened and I can't remember what position the cam should be in. I'm thinking the rod being adjusted should be off the top of the cam lobe and at its lowest point, but not positive. Thanks for your input and the manual but I'll just head down and talk tyo my indy and get the info from him; I just thought there would be someone here who could share their experiances. Thanks again Bro!
  • March 20, 2010 12:59 AM PDT
    Pull the plugs. Make sure motor is cold. 2 size pushrods. Long ones go to exhaust. Roll engine until lifter is at it's lowest position. Install pushrod and take out all slack. Roll to the next one, making sure each lifter is at it's lowest point before installing pushrod. After you get all installed, rotate again checking each one. On this round, when all slack is out, tighten 4 turns and lock down the locknut.
    • 1040 posts
    March 20, 2010 1:22 AM PDT
    TheExtreme wrote...
    Pull the plugs. Make sure motor is cold. 2 size pushrods. Long ones go to exhaust. Roll engine until lifter is at it's lowest position. Install pushrod and take out all slack. Roll to the next one, making sure each lifter is at it's lowest point before installing pushrod. After you get all installed, rotate again checking each one. On this round, when all slack is out, tighten 4 turns and lock down the locknut.

    That's what I was looking for! Pushrods already installed; so now to readust them on a cold motor, I just need to turn the motor till the rod I am adjusting is at its lowest point or bottom of downstroke rotate engine again for the 1st rod to be adjusted and so on for each pusrod till all are done...Thanks big time Bro!  Oh, mine call for 2 1/2 turns and then lock down, but I think I'll go to three and see how they sound....Thanks again man
    • 119 posts
    March 20, 2010 2:07 AM PDT
  • March 20, 2010 2:54 AM PDT
    Exactly Krum. That's why I put in there to make sure the motor is COLD. Too many folks get in a damn hurry.
    • 119 posts
    March 20, 2010 2:57 AM PDT
    not cool but stone COLD,,, yeah bad things "WILL HAPPEN"
    • 1040 posts
    March 20, 2010 6:25 AM PDT
    Krum wrote...
    http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/463-pushrod-adjustment-how-pics.html />
    dont forget to let bleed down the lifter

    Yep; I figure if the motor is cold the oil will have bled out but since I am one who be's vewy, vewy carful, I"ll wait just to make sure...Thanks for the input.

    • 1040 posts
    March 20, 2010 6:28 AM PDT
    TheExtreme wrote...
    Exactly Krum. That's why I put in there to make sure the motor is COLD. Too many folks get in a damn hurry.

    NO, NO, I understood ya clear as a bell Thanks again

  • March 20, 2010 6:43 AM PDT
    FX, I do mine regularly. Pull your plugs and put the tranny in 5 or 6th gear. Pull the timing plug and then rotate the motor till you find the TDC mark on the flywheel. This will allow you to adjust your two front lifters. Not sure how your HD lifters are rated but my S&S are 18 to 24 flats out or 3 to 4 turns. I've adjusted them to 3 turns right now.
    For the rear cylinder there is no marks on the flywheel unlike my old shovelhead so you turn the motor again till the rear lifters are both at there lowest range. This is the firing stroke and both valves are shut so you can then adjust you rear lifters to however many turns you want. 6 flats = 1 turn. Hydralic lifters are pretty tolerant of adjustment as long as you get the adjustment in the middle of the lifters range. Here is a vid on how they work, kinda like a shock absorber:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lorANZ1Tptw
    • 1040 posts
    March 21, 2010 11:59 AM PDT
    Hey Ray, thanks for the input. My Pushrods called for 2 1/2 turns and I' believe they are 24 TPI. I originally set them at 2 1/2 and thn on my way home after putting them in I started getrting a ticking noise and then it got worser to where its almost a clunking noise right now. I am gonna set them at 3 turns this time as I was told based on a 24 TPI rod three turns would be the way to go; so we'll see. I suspect one or more of them is loose and jummping around in there cause it sounds like one of the rockers are raising hell. So as soon as I can get my lift out of storage I'm gonna re-adjust them and see if that is the culprit.
  • March 21, 2010 12:03 PM PDT
    does this have a set screw with a locknut? make sure nothing is backing off!
    • 1040 posts
    March 21, 2010 12:20 PM PDT
    does this have a set screw with a locknut? make sure nothing is backing off!

    No Set screw that I remember; just the locknut

    • 1040 posts
    March 31, 2010 9:17 AM PDT

    OK, finally got out and worked on getting my pusrods adjusted. After finishing let bike idle for a few moments and ticking noise is gone. However, I can't take for a ride till kids go to school in the morning, so will see how she sounds after a good run.

    Now, the pic below is for my friend of whom I won't mention her name; but, she asked me what pushrods were. But I promise I will go to my grave with her secret...LOL
     

  • April 1, 2010 2:42 AM PDT
    To be Ignorant is not bad because it can be fixed. We all can learn some thing new each day. Please continue to ask and some one will be happy to help answer your questions. I love seeing a gal that can get dirty without the euwee whine.
    ....Thanks Fxrdude for steppin up to help share the information nomatter how small some may think it is..
    • 1040 posts
    April 1, 2010 4:12 AM PDT
    hgsc90 wrote...
    To be Ignorant is not bad because it can be fixed. We all can learn some thing new each day. Please continue to ask and some one will be happy to help answer your questions. I love seeing a gal that can get dirty without the euwee whine.
    ....Thanks Fxrdude for steppin up to help share the information nomatter how small some may think it is..


    No truer words Howard and with the best voice I can from my buddy "Scareface", Alway's looking to help my little friends"...LOL
    • 1040 posts
    April 1, 2010 6:00 AM PDT
    Well, good news and bad news. Good news is took my bike out today after adjusting pusrods and changing out ALL o-rings yesterday. Bike is running great and my ticking noise seems to be gone. The bad news; one of the O-rings I replaced on the top rear cylinder Intake pusrod is still blowing oil. I suspect I didn't get it seated good enough or something, but it's still leaking. All 4 were leaking before so I'm 3/4 of the way there. Tomorrow I'm gonna pull the rod out reaplce the upper ring readjust and try again. Will keep ya posted...Ride Safe
    • 5419 posts
    April 1, 2010 6:38 AM PDT
    Hey, I made it through school with a consistent 75%....Not bad at all