Apehangers, Fishtails, Springers...Whats your idea of your '

    • 190 posts
    January 30, 2010 10:34 PM PST
    Rode my bike outside today in 12 freakin degree weather....froze my freakin jingle bells off but had to do it...Got to thinkin n imaginin if i had a million bucks what would be my dream sled...
    or what mod$$$ would you all like make on your current bike to fit that 'dream machine' ride you got in your head?  
    By the way,,Dragon. we're all waitin on the patches...you too,Lucky!
    • Moderator
    • 19067 posts
    January 30, 2010 10:43 PM PST
    Well Sing Sing, Rex is almost EXACTLY where I want him. The only thing I WILL change is adding stereo speakers integrated in the tank and head unit in the dash. (custom Tank and Dash) I don't like fairings on the Road King. It is designed, a sheet metal man is lined up now all I need is the cash to do it.
  • January 30, 2010 10:58 PM PST
    this is for the moment but who knows what it will be next month
    • 1509 posts
    January 30, 2010 11:16 PM PST
    This is what I have dreamed about since 68 when I built my first Revel plastic Harley flh model.
    • 21 posts
    January 30, 2010 11:42 PM PST

    I with a kool rigid Indian Larry style - hell if I had a few million I guess I'd get an Indian Larry original!!!
    might as well go with the Grease Monkey! 


    • 1780 posts
    January 30, 2010 11:53 PM PST
    I love the Dragon like she is but I've always wanted a Capt America bike .....with a hidden shock system. To old for hard tails.

    Patches....waiting for the maker to get back to me on price. Price will depend on how many I buy, that's why I was trying to get some kind of count.

    Dragon
  • January 31, 2010 2:36 AM PST
    i would like a stretched swingarm frame, single seat, slammed in the weeds, old style fatbob tanks, 120 ci with a 6 spd, there was a front end looked like half a leaf spring sticking out, i liked that, apes of course. 21" front wheel, wrapped fenders, upswept fishies, and a long open road. catch me if you can! (i'm waiting on the lotto too! haha)
    • 190 posts
    January 31, 2010 2:50 AM PST
    bullmoose wrote...
    this is for the moment but who knows what it will be next month

    Hot damn! That is a beautiful bike!
    • 190 posts
    January 31, 2010 2:52 AM PST
    yea....hmm...(long pause)..in a perfect world........
  • January 31, 2010 2:53 AM PST
    Boss Hoss with a detachable fairing.
    • 1780 posts
    January 31, 2010 2:58 AM PST
    i would like a stretched swingarm frame, single seat, slammed in the weeds, old style fatbob tanks, 120 ci with a 6 spd, there was a front end looked like half a leaf spring sticking out, i liked that, apes of course. 21" front wheel, wrapped fenders, upswept fishies, and a long open road. catch me if you can! (i'm waiting on the lotto too! haha)

    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but wasn't that front end called a guirter front end.....may not be spelled correctly

    Dragon
  • g
    January 31, 2010 3:00 AM PST
    id just go buy a new zx10 ,get a few mods done on it .
  • g
    January 31, 2010 3:03 AM PST
    just like this one.....
    • Moderator
    • 19067 posts
    January 31, 2010 5:39 AM PST
    nightdragon wrote...
    i would like a stretched swingarm frame, single seat, slammed in the weeds, old style fatbob tanks, 120 ci with a 6 spd, there was a front end looked like half a leaf spring sticking out, i liked that, apes of course. 21" front wheel, wrapped fenders, upswept fishies, and a long open road. catch me if you can! (i'm waiting on the lotto too! haha)

    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but wasn't that front end called a guirter front end.....may not be spelled correctly

    Dragon

    Dragon, I think you mean Girder

    Typically  like this...


    The girder is usually designed with a pair of triangulated legs made of equal diameter tubing. The triangulated section forms a truss, which is quite strong. It is hard to fault most girders from the standpoint of strength, but most are affected to a varying degree by adverse handling characteristics.
    Even a girder which is geometrically correct [and few are] presents a large amount of unsprung weight, causing handling deficiencies. Granted, some of the solid steel springers contribute as much, or even more to unsprung weight, but at least those springers constructed of tubing do not add much unsprung weight.
    Geometry i of utmost importance in girder design. An incorrect design can easily result in zero or negative trail. Under such a condition, high speed wobble becomes a major concern. The geometry of a girder should be carefully checked to be sure that at least three inches of positive trail will result on your bike.
    I say your bike because the amount of rake in your steering head will contribute to the resultant trail of a girder. Generally it is safest not to rake your frame if you intend to install a girder.
    Girders that are designed with forward swooping legs are even more prone to produce negative trail. The four leading links, connecting the girder to the trees form a pair of parallelograms, if the girder is correctly designed. All four links must be of equal length. Often a manufacturer lacking basic engineering knowledge will produce a girder with extra long bottom links. In this case, parallelograms are not formed by the links and you better believe some horrible handling will result.
    In these cases, every time a bump is encountered, the girder will rise in relation to the steering head, causing the bike's wheelbase to increase. After passing the bump, the momentum of the frame, forced to rise in order to relieve the compression of the girder spring, will continue to rise as the girder's relative position lowers. This condition will cause the wheelbase to decrease. Once stabilized, the wheelbase will return to its original length, until the next bump is encountered. Imagine, if you will, what an elastic wheelbase does to the bike's handling.
    Of course, the enterprising owner of a girder can shorten the lower links to match the length of the uppers, or build new ones, to correct the obvious handling deficiency. But consider this; if the original manufacturer did now possess such basic knowledge, one can imagine the integrity and craftsmanship in the rest of the girder.
    Most girders possess yet another major design flaw. The make use of a single spring. And springs have been known to break, especially improperly chromed springs. If a single spring breaks on a springer the instant shift in rocker loading will cause some discomfort, to be sure, but not to the extent that the bike cannot be brought to a safe stop, under normal conditions. However, if that single spring on a girder snaps, you will probably find yourself in deep trouble.
    The girder will instantly allow the frame to drop until it bottoms on the pavement. At the same time, its lack of loading will cause the front wheel to offer essentially no steering control. The hapless rider will be extremely lucky if he doesn't go down.
    Alternatives to the single spring include dual spring and spring/shock combinations, both of which are on the market, and in either case the design deficiency offered by the single spring is eliminated.
    Although, as stated, the girder is a very strong design, improper welding techniques, poor alignment, inadequate bushings, and undersize tubing can render it substandard.
    If proper ratio between the overall length of the girder, and the diameter of its tubing is not maintained, elastic buckling can occur during normal riding. Be sure that the girder of your choice has relatively large diameter tubes in relationship to its length.
  • January 31, 2010 5:54 AM PST
    is this what your talking about  I wanted one for my bike but just cost to much but i been on the look out for one
    New Leaf Spring Front-end. SPECIAL. $1849.00



    • 1161 posts
    January 31, 2010 7:02 AM PST
    I would go to school to learn how 2 work on them so I could build my own and make my own parts on CNC's or Lathes.  But i Love the streched out or Chopper and  Bobber looks.
  • January 31, 2010 8:39 AM PST
    bullmoose, that is it!
  • January 31, 2010 8:42 AM PST
    RoadDog, that is definitely a girder. I had an 8" over on a Savior Frame. The only way to describe that setup is DEATH TRAP.
    • 1780 posts
    January 31, 2010 9:25 AM PST
    RexTheRoadDog wrote...
    nightdragon wrote...
    i would like a stretched swingarm frame, single seat, slammed in the weeds, old style fatbob tanks, 120 ci with a 6 spd, there was a front end looked like half a leaf spring sticking out, i liked that, apes of course. 21" front wheel, wrapped fenders, upswept fishies, and a long open road. catch me if you can! (i'm waiting on the lotto too! haha)

    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but wasn't that front end called a guirter front end.....may not be spelled correctly

    Dragon

    Dragon, I think you mean Girder

    Typically  like this...


    The girder is usually designed with a pair of triangulated legs made of equal diameter tubing. The triangulated section forms a truss, which is quite strong. It is hard to fault most girders from the standpoint of strength, but most are affected to a varying degree by adverse handling characteristics.
    Even a girder which is geometrically correct [and few are] presents a large amount of unsprung weight, causing handling deficiencies. Granted, some of the solid steel springers contribute as much, or even more to unsprung weight, but at least those springers constructed of tubing do not add much unsprung weight.
    Geometry i of utmost importance in girder design. An incorrect design can easily result in zero or negative trail. Under such a condition, high speed wobble becomes a major concern. The geometry of a girder should be carefully checked to be sure that at least three inches of positive trail will result on your bike.
    I say your bike because the amount of rake in your steering head will contribute to the resultant trail of a girder. Generally it is safest not to rake your frame if you intend to install a girder.
    Girders that are designed with forward swooping legs are even more prone to produce negative trail. The four leading links, connecting the girder to the trees form a pair of parallelograms, if the girder is correctly designed. All four links must be of equal length. Often a manufacturer lacking basic engineering knowledge will produce a girder with extra long bottom links. In this case, parallelograms are not formed by the links and you better believe some horrible handling will result.
    In these cases, every time a bump is encountered, the girder will rise in relation to the steering head, causing the bike's wheelbase to increase. After passing the bump, the momentum of the frame, forced to rise in order to relieve the compression of the girder spring, will continue to rise as the girder's relative position lowers. This condition will cause the wheelbase to decrease. Once stabilized, the wheelbase will return to its original length, until the next bump is encountered. Imagine, if you will, what an elastic wheelbase does to the bike's handling.
    Of course, the enterprising owner of a girder can shorten the lower links to match the length of the uppers, or build new ones, to correct the obvious handling deficiency. But consider this; if the original manufacturer did now possess such basic knowledge, one can imagine the integrity and craftsmanship in the rest of the girder.
    Most girders possess yet another major design flaw. The make use of a single spring. And springs have been known to break, especially improperly chromed springs. If a single spring breaks on a springer the instant shift in rocker loading will cause some discomfort, to be sure, but not to the extent that the bike cannot be brought to a safe stop, under normal conditions. However, if that single spring on a girder snaps, you will probably find yourself in deep trouble.
    The girder will instantly allow the frame to drop until it bottoms on the pavement. At the same time, its lack of loading will cause the front wheel to offer essentially no steering control. The hapless rider will be extremely lucky if he doesn't go down.
    Alternatives to the single spring include dual spring and spring/shock combinations, both of which are on the market, and in either case the design deficiency offered by the single spring is eliminated.
    Although, as stated, the girder is a very strong design, improper welding techniques, poor alignment, inadequate bushings, and undersize tubing can render it substandard.
    If proper ratio between the overall length of the girder, and the diameter of its tubing is not maintained, elastic buckling can occur during normal riding. Be sure that the girder of your choice has relatively large diameter tubes in relationship to its length.



    Rex dude you are amazing with your knowledge............You da man my friend.....I knew I wanted to be like you for a reason.

    Dragon
     

    • 190 posts
    January 31, 2010 9:45 AM PST
    Yep. You defintely know your shit dude! Come on over here and sit next to me...lemme bend ya ear.......Barkeep!!!! One for my bud here and keep em comin!!!!
    • Moderator
    • 19067 posts
    January 31, 2010 12:43 PM PST
    BTW I didn't wrtie that but I did find it...

    Thanks Dragon and Sing Sing... JD Ice and no damn friut...
    • 513 posts
    January 31, 2010 9:35 PM PST
    Was out on the night train yesterday and also froze my nuts off, 120 mile round trip, did enjoy it though.

     If money was no object then I would want one of these, an El Diablo from WCC,

    • 1161 posts
    August 27, 2010 7:01 PM PDT
    Seakers wrote...
    I would go to school to learn how 2 work on them so I could build my own and make my own parts on CNC's or Lathes.  But i Love the streched out or Chopper and  Bobber looks.

    Ok Time to update this....

    I want to get a FatBob and toss some parts on it I like with different from stock paint (since my Painter Closed down his local shop and then moved,  I'm looking at new ones now).
    • 834 posts
    September 3, 2010 4:55 AM PDT
    Mine would be an ol' skool bobber style. Pretty much nothing on it that doesn't make the bike go or stop.
    • 223 posts
    September 5, 2010 1:35 PM PDT
    I love the bike we have and wouldn't want anything else.  Only thing I'd do differently is, the Apes wouldnt' be so long and the bike wouldn't be so tall!  Ron's 6' 3" and even if I did ride his alone, I couldn't, I'm too short.  Hell, I can't even touch the ground when I'm sitting on her!  Can't really reach anything on her for that matter, have enough trouble getting my leg over the sissy bar...

    I'd love the have the same bike, only pint-sized to fit me!