Can anyone guide me in on where the connection is for the controls on an '09 HD FLSTC?  I think it's under the gas tank, but I don't feel like tearing into it before I have some idea.  Thanks.

Not trying to be a wise arse, but, buy the book! It will be the best money you will ever spend on that nice looking ride.

I'll have to look for the book....so much on my mind, never even thought about it.
I'm talking about where all the connections from the controls from the handle bars hook into the CPU.....I think I just answered my own question.....

Should be under the dashboard on the tank.

Yyyyyup - Under the tank. One on each side. NOT under the dash pannel. You will need to lift the tank to get to them. The tank-to-injector manifold fuel line detaches from the tank with a quick diconnect. On the part that screws into the tank, lift the sleeve toward the tank and pull out fuel line from tank fitting. But first, pull your fuel pump fuse and run the bike till it's out of fuel. This removes the 55psi of fuel built up in the fuel line so it doesn't spray everywhere and blow out the o-ring in the disconnect. Then diconnect the fuel guage wiring under the tank, then remove the dash panel and let it hang. Then get a big funle and place it under one side of the fuel line crossover daining into something large enough to catch all the fuel. Disconnect one side of the crossover and catch the fuel. When it's empty take the other side of the crossover off and set aside the crossover line. Then remove the tank bolt from the front of the tank and the screw at the back of the tank. Remove tank. Then you will find the two controls wiring gang plugs, one on each side of the back bone. Look at them and say "Yup, there they are" then put everything back together in reverse order. I like to use dielectric silicone gell on the connectors when I put them back together. Reduces corrosion...

I assume you are adding taller bars. So, new brake line, throttle/and idle cables, and clutch cable. Instructions for those are each about as long as this reply...

This link is't instructions, but will show you EVERY part on your bike and sort of how they they go together. The service manual for you bike is available at J&P for about $60, or at the shop for about the same price.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies//hdm_oem/hdmc.asp?Type=12&A=576 />

Clutch Cable: To do this you need a quart of 75W140 synthetic 6speed for your transmission and a transmission side plate gasket. Pull the clutch cable adjustment section out of the holder on the left side down tube. Slide the rubber boot down the cable. Loosen the adjuster all the way giving the cable the max slack. Drain the oil out of the tranny. Plug is under the tranny between the rear shocks. Replace the o-ring and set aside. Remove the 8 cap screws from the tranny side plate. I'd buy new chrome ones for the install. They look better and reduce corrosion by not having galvanized against chrome. (Side note: two different metals plus acid = battery. Acid can be watter and salt... same or very similar metals reduced this reaction) Use blue lock-tite when you put this back together. Once you have the side cover in your hand, remove the ball/ferrel end from the actuator inside the tranny cover. Then unscrew the cable end from the tranny cover. Next take your clutch lever off the handlebar and remove the pin holding the cable end to the lever. Now you can thread your old cable out from the bake.

Installing the new one is much the same as how it came apart. When its all back together, when you adjust your new cable there should be about 1/16 to an 1/8 inch of free play between the clutch lever and the clutch lever housing. I use a blade feeler gage for this. There is a pattern to torquing the side cover bolts to about 100 inch pounds. #1 is upper left, then lower right, lower left upper right, lower left sie, upper right side, lower right side, upper left side. Drain plug is about 240 inch pounds. 

Brake Line: You need your new cable, a bottle or two of brake fluid the DOT # is on your master cylinder. If you are switching to chrome, you need a 12mm banjo bolt with two 12mm o-ring crush gaskets, and a 10mm banjo bolt with 10mm o-ring crush gaskets.Remove old brake line (pretty straight forward). Note how the banjos fit beacuse they are indexed to holes in the master cylinder and caliper and won't work if you align the new ones wrong. Install the new brake line. When you instal the new banjo bolts a crush gasket goes on each side of the banjo. Torque to about 240 inch pounds. Make sure you resevoir is full, you don't have to install the cap until you all done, but don't let the resevoir run dry while you are bleeding your brakes. Bleeding is basically applying full pressure to the brakes, pushing new fluid into the system, then while holding that pressure on releasing the bleeder so the air comes out. Then tighten bleeder and release pressure. Repeat. and repeat and repeat. Probably will take a about half a bottle of brake fluid with new brake line. One tip to speed this process up is to pump the brakes a few times before holding preasure on. When you are done and pump the brakes the brake handle will only come within about a half inch of the throttle grip and will hold there with no bleed-off. Also no air will be escaping from the beleeder, just fluid. You might find that you have to take the caliper loose from the forks and manipulate it around a little to get the trapped air to come out of the bleeder. have fun!

throttle and idle cables are cake after doing all of the above. The only trick is knowing how the cables snap into the throttle housing at the handle bar end. they have little snap rings build in that make them kind of a bear to get out especially if they are corroded. Loosen up the cables so there is plenty of free play (just like on the clutch cable). remove ball ends and ferrels from the throttle handle.Grab the 90 degree tube ends with a pair of pliers and pull them out of the housing. This is the tough part. Trust me, they will come out. Sometimes if they are corroded a drift punch and hammer is the best way. Then remove cables and install new ones the same way the old ones were attached. Adjust the new ones till there is about 1/16" of free play. by the way, this is a great time to upgrade to a stage one intake, since you have to remove your football to get to the fuel injection manifold end of the cables...

Going from stock bars to apes is only about a $600 dollar job, $800 if you replace the intake. But well worth it!

Thanks for giving me something to do while I woke up and drank my morning coffe... now get to work!

Bulldogjim - Thanks for all the info. I'm still waiting for the parts to arrive. I had 18" Apes on my dyna and loved them....however my shoulder doesn't like the longer rides with them. I ordered beach bars to go the other way.....I'll try to remember to post pics as I go....Thanks again for all the info.....
Loren

KK, Bulldog, that was great info! Only one little hitch for me though....My '05 RK has Hydraulic clutch (not cable). Want to eventually go from stock police bars to something 2" - 4" taller and maybe less pullback. Suggestions?? Was told (@ Longhorn HD, Grand Prairie, TX) that FLSTC bars would give 2" and would fit with no other changes.

Haven't messed with hyro clutch yet, but will be very similar to a brake system.

I like my 16 Burley Gorilla's. You might check out http://www.hillcountrycustomcycles.com/ I have heard good things. I think you can get an entire package for about $500. Nice part is no guess work on lengths...