Greetings CycleFish MotorHeads! My winter 'Tear-Down' project this year includes replacing the valve cover gaskets. I have gotten all the stuff off of my 1985 FLHTC that needs to come off (gas tank, seat etc) and I have read the HD service manual to familiarize my brain w/the procedure. I am a good wrench and have done a LOT of this type of work, so I'm not afraid of whatever has to be done. Up to and including R&R of the motor.

The thing I want to know, do I have to pull the motor to change the valve cover gaskets? All but two of the 8 screws in the valve covers are accessable. Rear cylinder left side are like mebbe 1/2" from the frame. I already have a gasket kit for the primary/valve covers/exhaust/heads/etc... I was gonna just replace the valve cover & primary inner/outer gaskets (she has a wet clutch/primary chain) cause she's flinging more oil than is acceptable. If so, I might as well pull the heads & inspect the bore/pistons while the motor is out of the frame.

So, can anybody tell me do I have to pull the motor?
Thanx for reading and hope to hear there is a 'trick'.

EdgeWalker

Do you have that cool rocker box ratchet? Damn near impossible to remove those fasteners without it... but yeah you can remove the rocker boxes without pulling the motor... just a bitch to get to those fasteners... I think HD sells that ratchet for like $40.

I USED ON OF THOSE CHEAP RATCHET WRENCH'S ..THE 3/8 WRENCH FITS OVER THE ALLEN BIT AND HAS ROOM TO MOVE.BLACK IS RIGHT AS USUAL,ITS A F@CKER TO GET IN THERE..GOODLUCK BLOKE..CHEERS BOOF.

I usually remove engines as I want to do a nut bolt and washer check on EVERYTHING...lol...but then...I am me...lol...and it aint easy being me.....I have to change EVERY gasket, nut, bolt, washer, oil seal, etc etc etc...lol...as I figure that if one is breaking down then they all could be showing signs of wear, so I have to check them all, and since I am checking them all I may as well replace them all...lol...


There is always the problem with ONE nut though right?  In my case its ME!!!!!


sheeesh, I am sounding like a right anorak about now aint I?

If your doin it for money ya gotta make it quick and easy as possible..So short cuts come into play

BOOF is right, you waste a LOT of time vs. money and Harleys were actually made so that you don't have to go around pulling the motors, causing more problems... The Evolution motor was supposed to be released to the public in 1983 until R&D called bull$hit on the 2 piece rocker box cover, because if they had stayed with that 2 piece design life would have sucked for both shop and customer! LOL

So they redesigned the RB covers and launched the Evo in 1984! To much applause by techs and customers alike! 

Well I'm a preventive maintenance guy meself. Yet I'm so put about by doing mechanical work that if it ain't broke I don't mess with it. Just regularly scheduled PM.

Peace

Yup, preventive is best.....but my phrase is...."If It Aint Broke - Fix It Till It Is", ...lol...

Rocker box wrenches.





expensive but will last a lifetime
www.matcotools.com/catalog/vehicle-service/motorcycle-service-tools/  />
inexpensive but will get the job done
www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0220/ />

I wonder if Craftsman do the same one?

O.k. Whle we're on this mechanical kick; anyone actually use a torque wrench in every instance they're called for?



Peace

owned one once. havent seen it in years.

With the exception of emergency situations, I torque everything to spec.

I TIGHTEN EVERYTHING TO FTJBS METRIC FOOT POUNDS.....OH YEAH AND I USE ALOT OF LOKTITE...CHEERS BOOF

I try to torque most everything to spec. I like to make sure everything is secure - WITHOUT striping or snapping them.

Robert Pirsig, in "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" talks a lot about "mechanics feel". How, basically, you "just know" when it's right. What he does not mention is the busted parts and busted knuckles that come with the gaining of that knowledge. So, for me, 60 ft/lb is a good "grunt". 150 is a double-grunt, and 25 inch-pounds is right about t-h-e-r-e......

Thanx to all that replied... I bought a good American brand wrench from J&P.

The bike is torn down to the hubs, going back up soon... I'll post pictures...

EdgeWalker

found my torque wrench again the other day...yep i still have it in the box...it came in....

Yup EVERYTHING to spec, saves wear on parts and avoid putting unnecessary stress on parts and threads that hold bikes together.

Yeah I'm honestly glad I read this book, now I know what NOT to do as a mechanic... avoiding most of these dude's advice is paramount.

In the intro to that book Pirsing refers to the relationship between his title and Zen and the Art of Archery- In its introduction, Pirsig explains that, despite its title, "it should in no way be associated with that great body of factual information relating to orthodox Zen Buddist practice. It's not very factual on motorcycles, either."

Also, the term, "mechanics feel" is used when fitting parts and precise measurements. It's an outdated term when talking about torquing modern technology. In the past, manufacturers did not have torque specs because fitment was not as percise as it is today. So, if you are wrenching a '55 Hydra-Glide you are going to be forced to use "mechanic's feel" on fasteners and hope for the best but, if the manufacturer has provided you with specs the best way to save expense and headaches is to use them. 

WTF Is going on Edgewalker54?!! Elev8rguy needs to borrow your wrench!! LOL!!!

Black9 and his manual with torque specs are straight up. Those numbers kinda matter...