SUPER HIGH IDLE - HELP

    • 5419 posts
    August 13, 2010 2:24 PM PDT
    Ok, hopefully someone has a suggestion on this...  While riding around in Sturgis for the past week the engine light kept coming on, but the bike was running fine.  A local mechanic said it was a combination of the high ethanol gas and the altitude, and to add octane baoster.  I did that and it seemed to work for the engine light.

    Now the real problem.  Yesterday my bike overheated sitting in downtown Sturgis traffic in 100+ weather.  I pulled over let it cool down, but ever since that the idle has been running high.  At first it was just a little high, now when I pull off the highway it is running REALLY HIGH.  I have now tac, but I am sure its like 3,000 rpm.  I can run at about 45 mph in 3rd gear at idle.  When I run at highway speed, everthing seems normal.  I do notice when going through samll towns it heats up a bit, but probably from the high idle when stopping.

    It is a 2007 Road King.  Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!!!

    I am spending the night in SE Nebraska, and the closest dealer is in Ft Colins or Denver, both a couple hundred miles away. 
  • August 13, 2010 2:27 PM PDT
    look for a bad vacumn line off the intake area. causes leanouts and high idle, the computer will adjust at speed somewhat to compensate so it will runn, but the high idle is indicative of a vac leak
  • August 13, 2010 2:32 PM PDT
    you can find it with a spray bottle of soapy water, you spray the vac lines, and when you hit the leak, the motor will act up, sputter and such
    • 5419 posts
    August 13, 2010 2:44 PM PDT
    Thanks Derek, it's dark out, so I'm going to get up early and check that!
    • Moderator
    • 19007 posts
    August 13, 2010 2:52 PM PDT
    I wish I could offer some advise but with all the electronics I am a bit lost on the FI engines. As I remember the dealer in Ft Collins is right on I-25. A monster of a dealership. I hope you make it to them.
  • August 13, 2010 2:55 PM PDT
    look near the heat sources, cylinder heads, exhaust. that is where i would start. does it start funny? any pops or anything?
    • Moderator
    • 19007 posts
    August 13, 2010 3:01 PM PDT
    Have you considered going back to Rapid City?? They are probably swamped though.

    Hey Bulldog!!! Ready for a ROAD TRIP???
  • August 13, 2010 3:18 PM PDT
    Hey guys ~ I'm more on the 'bigger stuff' side... but after working on computerized vehicles for a long time, the ECU should adjust for an intake leak and enrichen the mixture. ECU fuel management is programmed to attempt to maintain 14.7:1 air / fuel ratio (Stoichiometric Ratio) Your MPG should ave gone to crap.
    Lucky ~ if your check engine light was on ~ I would venture to say she's set code in memory. Unless you have a scan tool, it's going to be next to impossible to diagnose... sorry! :-(
  • August 13, 2010 3:31 PM PDT
    Blackpearl wrote...
    Hey guys ~ I'm more on the 'bigger stuff' side... but after working on computerized vehicles for a long time, the ECU should adjust for an intake leak and enrichen the mixture. ECU fuel management is programmed to attempt to maintain 14.7:1 air / fuel ratio (Stoichiometric Ratio) Your MPG should ave gone to crap.
    Lucky ~ if your check engine light was on ~ I would venture to say she's set code in memory. Unless you have a scan tool, it's going to be next to impossible to diagnose... sorry! :-(

    the new harleys can give flashcodes through the instrument cluster, i can't remember how to access them, anyone have a book on this same model that lucky rides? if he can get the codes and call in, there might be a simple fix, or at least a bandaid for the problem
  • August 13, 2010 4:15 PM PDT
    I am with Badinfluence. Check for a vacume leak. A leak can smoke your engine. How about a manafold gasket leak also? Another thing I would do before I do another trip. Install an oil cooler. Jag makes one with a thermostat in the adapter. I didn't like the 1/4" lines so I tapped it out for 3/8" lines. Keeps my 01 FXDWG cool here in the Bay Area and into the valley.
    • 5419 posts
    August 13, 2010 4:16 PM PDT
    look near the heat sources, cylinder heads, exhaust. that is where i would start. does it start funny? any pops or anything?

    Nope, no problems starting, or any other problems except for the idle.

    • 0 posts
    August 13, 2010 6:03 PM PDT
    High Idle is from too much air. Throttle plates not closing, idle air control stuck, or vacuum leak.
    as far as the codes, this is copy'd frpm the h/d forum

    The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).
    Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

    1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

    2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

    3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.

    4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

    5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
    P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
    S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
    SP = speedometer
    T = tachometer

    6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

    7 - Record the codes.

    8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
    NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

    9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

    10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

    On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.

    "No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

    --------------------------

    HFSM = Hands Free Security Module
    TSM = Turn signal module

    Priority/DTC/Fault condition
    1. P0605 ECM FLASH Memory Error
    2. P0603 ECM EEPROM Memory Error
    3. U1300 ECM Serial Data Low
    4. U1301 ECM Serial Data High
    5. U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial Data to ECM
    6. U1064 Loss of TSM/FSFM Serial Data to ECM
    7. P1003 System relay contacts open
    8. P1002 System Relay Coil High/Shorted
    9. P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low
    10. P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed
    11. P1009 Incorrect Password
    12. P1010 Missing Password
    13. P06415 V+Vref 1 Out Of Range
    14. P06515 V+Vref 2 Out Of Range
    15. P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent
    16. P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low
    17. P0108 Map Sensor High
    18. P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error
    19. P1511 Throttle actuator control power management failure of throttle control actuator
    20. P1600 EFI Module Processor Internal Error
    21. P1270 TGS Validation Error
    22. P2107 EFI Module Processor Internal Fault
    23. P2101 throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performace error
    24. P2122 TGS1 Low/Open
    25. P2123 TGS1 High
    26. P2127 TGS2 Low/Open
    27. P2128 TGS2 High
    28. P2138 TGS Correlation Error (Twist grip sensor)
    29. P0120 TPS1 Range Error
    30. P0220 TPS2 Range Error
    31. P0122 TPS1 Low
    32. P0123 TPS2 High/Open
    33. P0222 TPS2 Low
    34. P0223 TPS2 High/Open
    35. P2135 TPS Correlation Error
    36. P2119 EFI Motor Throttle Body Range Performance
    37. P2100 EFI Motor Circuit Open
    38. P2101 EFI Motor Circuit Range Performance (Actuation Error)
    39. P2102 EFI Motor Circuit Low
    40. P2103 EFI Motor Circuit High
    41. P2176 EFI Closed Position Not Learned
    42. P1514 Air Flow Fault
    43. P2105 EFI Forced engine shutdown
    44. P1501 Jiffy Stand Sensor Low
    45. P1502 Jiffy Stand Sensor High
    46. P0572 Brake Switch Low
    47. P0117 ET Sensor Low
    48. P0118 ET Sensor High
    49. P0112I AT Voltage Low
    50. P0113I AT Voltage Open/High
    51. P1351 Front Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
    52. P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
    53. P1352 Front Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
    54. P1355 Rear Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
    55. P1357 Front Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
    56. P1358 Rear Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
    57. P0261 Front Injector Open/Low
    58. P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low
    59. P0262 Front Injector High
    60. P0264 Rear Injector High
    61. P0562 Battery Voltage Low
    62. P0563 Battery Voltage High
    63. P0501 VSS Sensor Low
    64. P0502 VSS Sensor High/Open..
    65. P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion
    66. P1353 Front Cylnder No Combustion
    67. P0444 Purge Solenoid Open/Low
    68. P0445 Purge Solenoid High
    69. P1475 Exhaust Actuation Position Error
    70. P1477 Exhaust Actuator Open/Low
    71. P1478 Exhaust Actuator Shorted/High
    72. P0131 Front Oxygen Sensor Low
    73. P0151 Rear Oxygen Sensor Low
    74. P0132 Front Oxygen Sensor High
    75. P0152 Rear Oxygen Sensor High
    76. P0134 Front Oxygen Sensor Inactive
    77. P0154 Rear Oxygen Sensor Inactive.
    78. P1510 EFI Limited Performance Mode
    79. P1511 EFI Power Management Mode
    80. P1512 EFI Forced Idle Mode
    81. P0577 Cruise Control Input High

    Priority/DTC/Fault condition


    HFSM = Hands Free Security Module
    TSM = Turn signal module

    1. U1300 Serial Data Low
    2. U1301 Serial Data High
    3. U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data
    4. U1255 Serial Data Error
    5. B1142 Smart Security System Internal Fault
    6. B1135 Accelerometer Failed
    7. B1136(HFSM) Accelerometer Tip Test Error
    8. B1151 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Ground
    9. B1152 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Battery
    10. B1153 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) High
    11. B1154 Clutch Switch Input Short to Ground
    12. B1155 Neutral Switch Input Short to Battery
    13. B1134 Starter Output High
    14. B1121(TSM) Left Turn Output Fault
    B1121(HFSM) Left Turn Output Open
    15. B1122(TSM) Right Turn Output Fault
    B1122(HFSM) Right Turn Output Open
    16. B1123(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Ground
    17. B1124(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Ground
    18. B1125(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Battery
    19. B1126(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Battery
    20. B1143(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Ground
    21. B1144(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Battery
    22. B1145(HFSM) Security Antenna Open
    23. B0563 Battery Voltage High.
    24. B1131(HFSM) Alarm Output Low
    25. B1132(HFSM) Alarm Output High
    26. B1141(TSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open
    B1141(HFSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open

    The following came from the ABS section of the 2008 Electrical Diagnostics manual- hopefully close enough until something better comes available...

    C0562 Device voltage low
    C0563 System voltage high
    C1014 ECU internal fault
    C1017 Pump motor power circuit open fault
    C1018 Pump motor ground high resistance fault
    C1021 Front wheel speed sensor equals 0
    C1023 Rear wheel speed sensor equals 0
    C1025 Front wheel speed signal intermittent
    C1027 Rear wheel speed signal intermittent
    C1032 Front wheel speed sensor circuit open or shorted
    C1034 Rear wheel speed sensor circuit open or shorted
    C1042 Pump motor open
    C1043 Pump motor stalled
    C1055 ECU internal fault
    C1056 ECU internal fault
    C1057 ECU internal fault
    C1061 ECU internal fault
    C1062 ECU internal fault
    C1065 ECU internal fault
    C1066 ECU internal fault
    C1094 Front brake switch always on
    C1095 Front brake switch open
    C1118 ECU internal fault
    C1121 ECU internal fault
    C1151 Front wheel release too long
    C1153 Rear wheel release too long
    C1158 Calibration programming required
    C1206 Wheel speed sensor frequency out of range
    C1208 Wheel speed sensor frequency out of range
    C1212 Front or rear brake not applied with decel
    C1214 Rear brake switch always on
    C1216 Rear brake switch open
    U1300 Serial data low
    U1301 Serial data open/high
    • 0 posts
    August 13, 2010 6:11 PM PDT
    Also if your bike is drive by wire, (no throttle cables) you might have to reset the throttle position.
    To reset your idle setting back turn the ignition switch on for 10 seconds off for 10 seconds (do not start the engine), repeat a total of 4 times. That should reset your original throttle position.

    If yours has cables this does not apply.
    • 5419 posts
    August 14, 2010 1:01 AM PDT
    Couldn't find anything obvious. Going to try to make it to the dealer. Wish me luck!!!
  • August 14, 2010 1:40 AM PDT
    ya'll be carefull
    • 1066 posts
    August 14, 2010 4:53 AM PDT

     Well, they call ya LUCKY for a reason don't they!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Lucky, I got to roll with Derek on this.  Sure sounds like a vacume leak somewhere.                           Good luck brother, I hope you make it to a dealer ok.






























    • Moderator
    • 19007 posts
    August 14, 2010 10:28 AM PDT
    Hey Y'aalll, I got the word from Lucky. Apparently the idle screw backed out. ALL IS FINE NOW! THey are heading home.
    • 352 posts
    August 15, 2010 1:51 AM PDT
    damn...he had a screw loose - imagine that!

    • 5419 posts
    August 16, 2010 2:58 PM PDT
    Yeah, who would of thought to check the idle stop screw. I had been a long week.
    • 1066 posts
    August 16, 2010 3:20 PM PDT
    One of them " Road Gremlins " must have hung on to your bike somewhere Lucky.